Usually, when you buy a mini aquarium, it includes some essentials like a net, a packet of fish flakes, water conditioner for your city tap water, an electric mechanical filter, and a filter bag with carbon. These mini aquarium kits cost anywhere from $20 to $100, depending on brand and size. But you should also consider getting some other supplies. I used about 5 pounds of small gravel in my 5 gallon tank. Most authorities in the area suggest using 2 pounds for each gallon of water. But that really makes for a heavy tank and less water space in the tank. I bought 2 small and 2 medium sized plastic plants. This gives some hiding spaces for the fish and some swimming area too.
The filter works fine, but it doesn't move the water enough through the tank for the type of fish that I have. I ended up purchasing a little air pump, hose and misting stone to help add friction and oxygen to the water. After a couple of weeks, I opened the filter bag and dumped out the carbon when I needed to start adding medication on the tank. I wish I had removed the carbon initially. If you do choose to remove the carbon right away (before using the filter bag), save the clean dry carbon in a plastic bag so that you can use it later after your tank has been adequately cycled and stable.
Some other things I realized that I needed was a good quality water testing kit. The dip in testers are good once the tank is stable, but the testers that give more accurate readings are really needed with the mini tanks. I discovered that I literally needed to change the water at least once a day, sometimes twice a day to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels to a tolerable level during the initial cycling process to prevent new tank syndome. I don't change 100% of the water. I siphon out about 10 - 20% of the water each day and replace it with clean warm water.
We like to keep our house on the cool side, and the fish like temps in the mid 70s (F). So a heater is essential. An adjustable heater is better in the event you want to gradually rise or lower the water temps for your fish. A good thermometer is also important.
A gravel vac is important. Even more important is getting the right size! A mini gravel vacuum/siphon makes water changes easier. Along with a couple of large buckets and a couple of small pitchers to fill from the buckets to pour the clean water back into the tanks after a water change.
Oh, and perhaps not the most essential, but quite important for plugging in the aquarium light, filter, heater and air pump is a quality power strip. It does not need to be the expensive surge protector kind, but something to help you keep all the cords up and out of the water and organized. Remember to create a drip-loop with each electrical cord that keeps any "stray" water or condensation on the power cords away from your power strip!
That's enough to get you really ready to take care of your fishies.
The filter works fine, but it doesn't move the water enough through the tank for the type of fish that I have. I ended up purchasing a little air pump, hose and misting stone to help add friction and oxygen to the water. After a couple of weeks, I opened the filter bag and dumped out the carbon when I needed to start adding medication on the tank. I wish I had removed the carbon initially. If you do choose to remove the carbon right away (before using the filter bag), save the clean dry carbon in a plastic bag so that you can use it later after your tank has been adequately cycled and stable.
Some other things I realized that I needed was a good quality water testing kit. The dip in testers are good once the tank is stable, but the testers that give more accurate readings are really needed with the mini tanks. I discovered that I literally needed to change the water at least once a day, sometimes twice a day to keep the ammonia and nitrite levels to a tolerable level during the initial cycling process to prevent new tank syndome. I don't change 100% of the water. I siphon out about 10 - 20% of the water each day and replace it with clean warm water.
We like to keep our house on the cool side, and the fish like temps in the mid 70s (F). So a heater is essential. An adjustable heater is better in the event you want to gradually rise or lower the water temps for your fish. A good thermometer is also important.
A gravel vac is important. Even more important is getting the right size! A mini gravel vacuum/siphon makes water changes easier. Along with a couple of large buckets and a couple of small pitchers to fill from the buckets to pour the clean water back into the tanks after a water change.
Oh, and perhaps not the most essential, but quite important for plugging in the aquarium light, filter, heater and air pump is a quality power strip. It does not need to be the expensive surge protector kind, but something to help you keep all the cords up and out of the water and organized. Remember to create a drip-loop with each electrical cord that keeps any "stray" water or condensation on the power cords away from your power strip!
That's enough to get you really ready to take care of your fishies.
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